Driving

The last day of our trip, we woke up a little later than intended and had to pack up. This time it seemed that packing up the tent was more bittersweet than it had been before. We knew that this would be the last time on the trip. We pulled out the tent stakes, wiped off the mudfly, and crammed it back into the tote. We packed up the car, reorganized it for the long trip ahead, and started down the mountain.

It was around 9am mountain time as we made that last dissent. According to Google Maps, we had nearly a 19 hour drive ahead of us. We started off on 14A, which would take us back to 90. We had just started out when we came to a stop. Construction on the mountain would require us to wait for a Pilot Car to come to lead us up. We sat with the windows down, cheerfully complaining about the wait. Personally, I was glad for any more time spent in the mountains.

Following the car up and around the mountain, we were once again thrust in the midst of beautiful vistas. The air was cold but it was the kind of cold that made you thankful to feel it. As the car waved us on, we continued on our way. We weren't driving long before we came to a sign. We pulled over and took some pictures.

Off to our left, there was snow on the hillside. Adam started to run up towards it. The thing about elevation is that it literally takes your breath away. The high altitude had caused us on more than one occasion to accidentally over-exert ourselves by doing such common place things as walking fast or jogging.
He's that little speck in the middle. Signs at the observation point proclaimed which activities were permitted and prohibited.
For instance, it was fine to go biking or skiing down the mountain, but not okay to take your ATV on it.

We got back in the car and continued on our way. We changed the clock back to central time, so that we would be aware of how much time we were actually dealing with. Adam had a meeting in the morning, and we had to get back. Originally, our intention had been to do about 15 hours of driving one day, and then 5 the next, but the way things were looking, we'd be driving straight through from Wyoming back to Chicago.

The first order of business was to find a truck stop to get coffee and brush our teeth. Just in case you were wondering, we hadn't been at a campsite with modern facilities for 4 days. It was my suggestion to wait until we got to a place with a sink to brush our teeth, rather than leaving nasty toothpaste smell in nature. We got to a town and hit up the gas station and general store. They had a bathroom, but no coffee. I couldn't believe it. I've never stopped at a gas station with no coffee. We got back in the car and headed to the next town over, one that we had actually stopped in a few nights before. We got a box of donuts and two big cups of coffee and headed out on our journey again.

Heading east through Wyoming is a bit of a sad affair. You know that soon enough, the mountains are going to end. We stopped again around 2:30 and got some more coffee and postcards. I started driving and soon enough, we were at the juncture that would have taken us back to Devils Tower. We went on past it, and got back onto 90. Far too soon, we were in South Dakota.

South Dakota is a long state. You can drive all day, and just get through it. We needed to make one last stop before we really hunkered down to begin our non-stop driving spree. We had missed this stop the first time because of all of the stops we wanted to make on our way out west. Adam and I knew that this was one stop we couldn't afford to miss.

We pulled off on a long country road, through corn fields and past small farms. We got held up again with construction and waiting for a pilot car. Again, sitting with the windows open, we took in our surroundings. The car was off and we sat quietly, waiting with anticipation for the pilot car to take us to our next, and sadly, final destination.

The car drove us nearly to the entrance of the park. All weekend long, we'd had great luck, as it was a fee free weekend in the national parks and as such, hadn't paid for a thing. We pulled up to the window, paid our $15 entrance fee, which we knew would be totally worth it, and we were suddenly transported into the Badlands.We pulled into the first scenic overlook, and got out to take pictures. If you've never been to the Badlands, you might not understand. Its as though you're suddenly surrounded by jagged cliffs, steep drops into valleys, grasslands and mounds. Its breathtakingly beautiful.
Getting back in the car, we drove the rest of the way through the park. Though we wished we had more time to spend there, we knew it wasn't an option. Adam talked enthusiastically about coming back sometime and going backpacking. I made a joke about getting some snake anti-venom and he said with utmost seriousness, "Nah, that's just extra weight." And then, "How much do you think that costs? Do you think it's necessary?"

We drove for a while longer before pulling off in a town to grab some food. Let me tell you, there aren't a ton of towns along 90 in South Dakota. After dinner, we got gas, switched drivers and began the long night drive. Adam started us out around 9, I fell asleep around 10:30, and then at 1:30, somewhere in Minnesota, we pulled off, filled up the tank, and I took over the wheel. I had an enormous cup of coffee and Twizzlers to keep me company. I put on some Dar, and drove. And drove. And cursed Obama and his stimulus package.

Several times, the road narrowed down to one lane with long orange medians between you and the oncoming traffic. All the while, the construction signs boasted that it was a part of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act. I cursed and muttered. Around 4:30, Adam woke up during one of my rants and offered to drive to which I responded, "We're in the middle of fucking construction and I have a goddamn semi on my ass, you want me to fucking pull over?!?!?" He apologized and went back to sleep.

We crossed the Mississippi again, and I said goodbye to Minnesota. The sun rose (and because I was listening to Dar all night and can't resist) with so many colors it nearly broke my heart. Wisconsin's familiar terrain rose around us. Around 5:30, I decided that I had had enough of the driving and was going to get some McDonald's for breakfast. I almost feel like McDonald's breakfast is a sick reward for making it through a night where you did something you know you probably shouldn't have. It's the perfect cure for hangovers, first of all, and second, it's always there after a night of highway driving. To be clear, I did not have a hangover.

Pulling into a McDonald's in Wisconsin Dells, I took a look at myself in the restroom. I looked wrecked. My hair was dirty and a mess and it was clear I hadn't slept the night before.

We ate our food in near silence. We still had about 4 and half hours to go. My coffee was too hot to drink and when we got back to the car, I didn't want to sleep. But before long, I was out. I woke up and Adam had started drinking my coffee. I took it back. That was my coffee. We crossed into Illinois and pulled over at a rest stop. I dozed as Adam pulled onto the tollway.

You know how there are sometimes songs that for no explainable reason come to commemorate something or some time in your life? Adam and I have a song like this for our roadtrip. One of my guidebooks suggested Pete Seeger for good traveling music. Listening to it for the first time, even I, who loves Americana folksy stuff, said, "Wow. This sucks." Driving through the mountains that first night, we had it playing again, and this song came on. It's not a great song by any means, except that it's really catchy. I finally understand what they were trying to teach us during those song-writing workshops at Second City. Its not really about the verses as long as you have a catchy chorus. Well, let me tell you, this song has a very catchy chorus. It's called "The Ballad of Titanic." The verses are pretty insignificant when it comes to the overall song. The chorus on the other hand, is fantastic.

It was sad!
It was sad!
It was sad when that great ship went down!
Husbands and wives
little children lost their lives
It was sad when that great ship went down!

Out of nowhere, we would both start singing it. We put the song on for a final time and then Adam requested his second favorite Pete Seeger song: "The Draft Dodger Rag." Then I put on "Big Rock Candy Mountain," and we laughed about the hobo museum. I put on "Home on the Range," and we pulled over and cried and held each other, mourning the end of our great trip. Okay, so we didn't pull over and cry.

As we drove into the city around 9:30, we we were proud of our tremendous accomplishment. The trip had been remarkable, the scenery and the company was grand! While excited for a shower, I wasn't all that pleased to be back in Chicago. A bum walked up and down through the cars begging for change. People waited on the side of the street for the bus. It was hot, and it wasn't a good summer hot, it was a tragic dirty hot.

We pulled into my driveway and took one last picture. We began to unload the car, and before long, Adam was on his way to get a car wash and take a shower before his meeting. I handed him back his extra car key, and he hesitated before taking it back. "No, you keep it," he said. I forced it into his hand and told him that if he didn't take it, I'd steal his car and drive it back to Wyoming. And I wasn't kidding.

I sat down in my apartment surrounded by all of the camping gear. I took a deep breath and started to unpack. And realized I had forgotten to grab my toiletries from Adam's car.